Published in The Times

Bottomless brunch is an evil creation. I should know—II worked as a bottomless brunch waiter for eight months. For those who aren’t familiar with the concept, and I envy you, the idea is that you pay a certain amount of money to drink and eat as much as you can for a certain amount of time.

It’s like an all-you-can-eat buffet, but with the pretence of sophistication. The emphasis is on pretence: this isn’t just a mimosa or two on a Sunday; bottomless brunch is not the kind of thing you’d take your mother to, or anyone you love, for that matter.

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